更新时间:2017.10.07

清迈慢行记- Album of my Brief Chiang Mai Trip

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天数:4 天 时间:9 月 和谁:夫妻
玩法:自由行,人文

发表于 2017-10-07 00:28

小记一次短暂的旅行。

To make a short trip long in memory.


The Guest House

这次泰国行为了好好体验清迈,订的是老城内的家庭式公寓,兰纳式的建筑风格,老板娘Nusarra 和Narissa似姐妹花,把个小小的院落里的绿植和小摆设收拾得很别致。

To better experience local Chiang Mai, we booked a Guest House in the old town. The GH is a Lanna style building with a small courtyard beautifully decorated with delicate plants and crafts by the sister owners, Nusarra and Narissa (sound like flora names).


连廊的尽头有个三面通风的小餐厅,Nusara有空的时候,你可以坐在那儿和她闲聊。小小的餐厅连着一个室外用餐的小露台,可以坐在室外边慢悠悠地吃早餐边欣赏周边的小绿植。

By the end of the corridor there is a small but airy dinning hall where you can sit and chat with Nusara about local things when she is not busy. Outside the dinning hall is a small porch, comfortable to to have breakfast there and enjoy the outside green.

早餐8点才开始,等你从菜单里选好Menu后,Nusarra 再亲自做,你便先得耐心地啜着咖啡或锡兰茶,慢慢等着早餐做好上来,大概是让你先适应清迈的慢节奏吧。(倘若当天有活动,事先告诉Nusara, 她也会提早备好早餐)。早餐很精致,Nusara的鸡蛋饼煎得软嫰可口,意式鸡蛋饼特别好吃。当没客人了,她会和Narissa 两人坐在餐厅里吃早餐,一样地讲究。

Breakfast begins only after 8am. You got to choose one option from the menu, then sit idly outside and sip your coffe or Dilmah tea, waiting for Nusara to prepare your breakfast and a girl to serve, seems to be a good start to slow you down to Chiang Mai pace. (If you have early program, you can tell Nusara in advance, she will then prepare the breakfast early). Breakfast is served beautifully. Nusara makes good omellet, especially this frittata, looks healthy and yum. When she has time to sit down with Narissa for breakfast, she arranges their meal beautifully as well.


GH离清迈门不远,周边都是清迈典型的窄巷子,只勉强挤得下过一辆双条车(双条车一般只在外面的环城路上走))或突突三轮车。周边房子大多有些许显旧,不见怎么养护的院子透着绿,我们路过时看到过一只松鼠从雕花的门楣跃到树上往绿叶深处窜去。白天显得宁静的邻里,下半夜却意外的不安宁起来,一只早起的公鸡卯足了劲儿啼叫,被吵醒的狗儿愤怒地狂吠起来,鸡鸣狗吠声此起彼伏,直到天亮

The GH is in a typical Chiang Mai lane not far away from the Chiang mai Gate. The narrow lane allows only one Tutu to pass. Along the lanes there are many hourses with courtyards not so well manitained but have exuberant woods. We once saw a squirrel leaped from a carved door lintel to a tree and disappeared in the dense leaves. The neighbourhood is quiet during the day but not so after midnight when a rooster's crow breaks the quietness of the night and wakes up the dogs, which then bark angrily. The crowing and barking last until daybreak.


【插曲】双条车和突突车

泰国的旅游业很成熟,交通却不发达,清迈的交通以皮卡改装的小公交车(后面竖着两排座位,故有双条车之称),和有棚的小三轮车(突突之名来自三轮马达突突声),然后你得和司机讲价,一开始有些担心和不习惯,后面发现泰国的物价其实便宜,当你对价格不敏感的时候,讲价也是个乐趣,跟周末市场淘东西一样,几个来回砍价后,双方都愉快接受,然后上车,司机瞬间加大油门,欢快地把车开得飞快。

Compared with Thailand's matured tourism industry, its public transport is rather rudimentary. In Chiang mai, the practical way to go around is to flag down a truck-modified minibus called songthaew, or tuk tuk, a roofed motor tricycle. Usually after a few back and forth haggling, both the driver and the passenger would accept the fare with satisfaction, you then jump into the car and the driver would push the engine hard and roll off the road gaily. When price is not a sensitive issue, haggling can be fun.

相比于双条车和突突,叫车的费用相比于路程让人觉得有些吃人,街头很少看到的士,Uber可用,酒店叫车比较贵,机场接送也可在携程订。也许最好的方式是租辆自行车在老城里逛

Taxi is rarely seen in the street. Uber is available, you can also ask the hotel to call a cab, or book at ctrip for airport transport. TAXI fare is normally far more expensive and not commensurate to the distance. Maybe the best way to get about in the old town is to rent a bike.


清迈大学】Chiang Mai University,CMU

清迈大学建于1964年,是泰北最重要的高等学府,医学和工科较为出名。主校区位于素贴山(Doi Suthep Mountain)脚下。从清迈门搭双条车到清迈大学,车费两个人讲价到80泰铢。清迈大学门口有游校园的电瓶车,每人60泰铢,路程约半小时。

Chiang Mai University was founded in 1964. It is the most important university in the northern Thai region. The main campus locates at the foot of Doi Suthep Mountain. We took a songthaew from Chiang Mai Gate to Chiang Mai University with 80 bahts for two. From the main gate of the university you can take a half-hour electric car tour of the campus, 60B per person.

校园很大,大部分建筑简单没有特色,草坪和巨树却让这里有像天然的公园。校园深处的湖也许是清迈大学最大的看点,电瓶车在这里停留了10分钟。这湖猛一看也不怎么起眼,近看湖面,倒映着天光云影,大自然寥寥的几笔,尽显出其魅力。

The campus is big, most of the buildings are plain and simple. Only the lawn and the big trees make the campus look like a natural park. The big lake deep in the campus maybe the biggest attraction, as the electric car dropped us there for 10 minutes. The lake looks not different from the others, but when you get a closer look, the reflection of the blue sky and white cloud on the lake is striking. NATURE has its magic by a few brush strokes.

学生的仪式?

Is it a ritual of the students?


【宁曼路】Nimmanhaemin Road

也许因为天气热,也许因为没力气走路,也许因为找不到合适的饭店,我们匆匆走了下宁曼路,留下简陋的印象便走了,也许时间地点不对。

Maybe the hot weather made us weak to walk for long, or maybe we were too picky to find a right restaurant for the allergic guy. We soon left with not much impression of the Nimmanhaemin Road except a bit shabby street hourses. Correct me if I am wrong.


【契迪龙寺】Wat Chedi Luang

去到清迈别错过契迪龙寺。又称大佛塔寺,契迪龙寺始建于1411年,与帕辛寺同为清迈地位最崇高的寺庙,曾经供奉珍贵的翡翠佛(现供奉在曼谷的玉佛寺Wat Phra Kaew)。正殿后面的大佛塔在1545年清迈大地震塌毁,后几经重建,佛塔的基座每侧有纳迦蛇神守护的通道通往佛塔内部。塔身有六座象头雕塑,最右侧一座是砖砌古迹。

If you visit Chiang Mai, don't miss Wat Chedi Luang. Also called Temple of the Big Stupa, this relic temple was first built in 1411, and is as prestigious as Wat Phra Singh. The pagoda behind the large viharn (assembly hall) used to be given the great honor of housing the holy Emerald Buddha (now kept in Wat Phra Kaew, Bangkok). it was toppled halfway in an earthquake in 1545 and was rebulit several times afterwards. The ruined pagoda has four sides, each with a niche approached by a monumental stairway guarded by stone nagas (mythical snakes). Six elephants stand guard midway up the platform( there must be more that have been missing). The one on the right side is the only original brick relic left.


佛塔遗迹在晚霞中显得格外神秘,令人震撼。

The pagoda looked striking and mysterious in the evening glow.


守护清迈城的城市支柱,是1800年由别的寺庙移到这里的。后面是高大的龙脑香树。传说树若倒了,灾难就会降临。
The city pillar that protects Chiang Mai was moved here from other temple in 1800., Behind is one of the three great Dipterocarp trees in the temple. Legend has it that if this tree falls, a great catastrophe will follow.


大殿是典型的兰纳式建筑,具有飞扬层迭的飞檐,入口上放装饰着繁复花纹的三角楣。

The large viharn (assembly hall) is Lanna style architecture with upward flying roof and Naa Ban above the entrance that has sophisticated decorative pattern.


【周末夜市】The Sunday Night Market

清迈以手工艺品出名,周末夜市是淘手工制品和纪念品的好去处。契迪龙寺出来就到了周末夜市的步行街。MM把DD丢在搭着舞台的街角,匆匆地往里走了一小段,飞速买了一点小玩意儿(旅行中养成的习惯,见到喜欢的瞬间下手,不挑三拣四,同时克制买便宜货的欲望。)

Chiang Mai is famous for its handicraft. The Sunday night market along the Ratchadamnoen Road is definitly a fun place to look for bargains of handicrafts and souvenirs. The walking street is not far away from Wat Chedi Luang. After the temple, MM dropped DD at the end of the street where a stage was set up and hurried down the market to grab some souvenirs. A habit formed over the years of travelling is to buy things you like at first glance without a second thought. You only have to follow you instinct. Buy what you like instead of what is cheap is another skill to learn.

夜市淘的木青蛙,讲价讲得大家都糊涂了,我出到60B,摊主以为是50B,OK。 手链是在店里淘的,老板娘说是她妹妹手工做的,为了她妹妹,不怎么肯让价,最后也是为了她妹妹,卖给了我。

The wooden frog was found in the night market. the bargaining was confusing. I offered a final 60B, and the vendor though we both agreed at 50B, OK, good for me. The bracelet was handmade by the sister of the store owner, for her sister's sake, she won't give much room for haggling, finally for her sister's sake too, she sold it to me.


【Pantawan泰菜烹饪课程】Thai Cooking School

DD说无论要学(体验)什么都要学最好的,所以报了个最贵的泰菜课程。没有比较其它课程,不知是不是真的最好,但的确是个好的体验。

DD said if you want to learn(or experience) something, take the best, so we signed up for the most expensive one. Without comparison, I don't know if this school is the best, but it was really a good experience.

<菜市场>

先去逛当地菜市场,认识泰菜食材。菜市场有点像国内乡下的市场,有些昏暗油腻,猛一看卖的东西也有点像。

Our first stop was to visit the local market and learn Thai food ingredients. The market looked like any shabby countryside market in China, dim and greasy.



领队让我们品尝了切成条的炸猪皮,蘸青椒酱吃。清迈人边看电视边蘸着青椒酱吃炸猪皮条,就像老外蘸着番茄酱吃薯片一样哈。来自旧金山的女孩很勇敢地吃了又吃。

The guide from the school encouraged us to try fried pig skin shreds with green peper sauce. It's a local snack that people eat while watching TV, just like foreigners having chips with ketchup. The girl from San Francisco was brave to eat a lot.

还吃了第一图的香肠,有些咖喱味,领队说没吃过这香肠等于没来清迈。

We also ate the curry flavored Chiang Mai sausage, which is a must for visitors to Chiang Mai, and of cause you need to know the right place to get the best sausage.


泰姜、姜黄、柠檬草、卡菲尔酸橙和???泰菜的灵魂。

Thai ginger(galangal), turmeric, lemon grass, kaffirlime and ???, the spices are the soul of Thai food.

Pantawan是个家族经营的烹饪学校,高脚楼四面通透,庭院花园绿意葱葱。

Pantawan is a family run cooking school on the outskirt of Chiang Mai. Cooking is taught on the "second floor" of a Thai stilt hourse which is opened on four sides without a wall. The garden is exuberant with pleasant verdant green.


厨师的名字叫GUN,讲一口流利的美式英语,风趣自信。

Gun is the name of the chef. He speaks fluent American English. This guy is really funny and confident.

x

准备碳烤香蕉叶包鱼.包前把香蕉叶放火上很快地烤出油光,叶子就变软了。

Gun showed us how to prepare grilled fish wrapped in banana leave. To soften the leave for easy wrapping, burn it very quickly over the fire until it's surface turns glossy.


香料是泰菜的灵魂,除了熟悉的大蒜,辣椒、葱头,香菜、薄荷,清柠檬,还有陌生的泰国南姜、姜黄、甲猜(krachai)、柠檬草、卡菲尔酸橙...很多泰菜的第一道工序是用石臼把各种香料捣成酱,让香味充分挥发和混合。据说从前村子里的小伙子挑媳妇还听姑娘的捣臼声,谁家的姑娘捣臼响亮,将来就是好媳妇,想来能把石臼捣得响亮,必定身体也健康,而健康是原始择偶的第一标准。

Again, spices are the soul of Thai cuisine. Besides the familiar garlic, chili(birds eye chili the hottest), shallot,coriander, mint and lime, there are many more unfamiliar or unheard of spices such as galangal, turmeric, finger root, lemon grass, kaffirlime.....In many Thai food, the first step is to prepare spice paste, that often means to smash and grind the spices in stone mortar with stone pestle (wooden mortar and pestle are usually for squeezing) to fully release and minger different aroma. In the old times, the girl who could make the most resonant sound of smashing spices in mortar was supposed to be a good wife condidate, and therefore lads of the village would wonder around, listening to smashing sounds coming from the neighborhoods, looking for their girls. That girl who could smash the mortar hard and loud must be healthy, and healthy should be the top criterion for selecting mates in the old days.


我们公认椰奶咖喱面是当天的第一美味。水抄过的鸡蛋面吸收了椰奶咖喱汤的浓浓香味,上面再铺上炸得脆脆的面,超级好吃。椰奶咖喱汤做法复杂,这里给两个秘诀,秘诀一:鸡块放入椰奶咖喱汤后,变色前不要搅动,否则就串味了;秘诀二:随后还要在汤里加一小块棕榈糖(不是糖果哈)。

Kao Soi Gai(Chiang Mai Curry Noodle with Chicken) was rated by us to be the best course of the day. Boiled egg noodles in the soup absorbed rich coconut milk and curry flavor. Fried noodle topping added an extra crispy texture, super yum. I'll keep the sophisticated coconut milk curry soup recipe to myself, but here are two secrets to share. Tip 1: after adding chicken chunks to the boiling soup, don't stir until the chicken turns white, otherwise the soup will smell more chicken than coconut milk and curry; Tip 2: add a small lump of pulm sugar to the soup.


享受劳动成果了,拍照时间,还有证书!!!

Time to enjoy the meal. Picture time, and, CERTIFICATE ! ! !


【帕辛寺】Wat Phra Singh

帕辛寺(或称普拉辛寺)也是清迈历史最悠久的佛寺之一,大殿供奉重要的普拉辛菩萨,四周墙上的佛教故事壁画栩栩如生。大殿后面的大金塔始建于16世纪。

Wat Phra Singh is also one of the oldest Buddist temples in Chiang Mai. Wihan Lai Kham, the main hall,houses an important Buddha statue: the Phra Buddha Sihing. The murals are remarkable. The golden pagoda was first built in the 1600's.


斜阳下的大金塔让周边笼罩在金色的光芒中,流金溢彩的感觉。

Before dusk, the dazzling golden shine from the pagoda penetrates the air, reflected on the floor its golden glare.


谁能解码这些古老的神秘动物。

Who could decipher these mythical ancient creatures?


美丽的藏经阁

Ho Trai, the Beautiful temple library.


【其它寺庙】Other temples

在清迈古城,随时可以拐进一个清净的寺庙静心。

In the old town of Chiang Mai, You can easily go into a quiet temple at the corner of the street.



【老城门和护城河】The old city gate and the moat

塔佩门是保留最完整的老城门。

Tha Pae Gate is the one that best preserves the ancient gates.

清迈门和边上的护城河。

Chiang Mai Gate and the moat。


【芒果糯米饭】(Khao Niew Mamuang),glutinous rice with mango and coconut milk

【未完待续】To be continued

年轻时喜欢暴走式的穷游,很享受行前的准备,将行程排满,这种惯性延续至今。这次泰国行本想放慢脚步,只保留几处真心想看的行程。没想到DD一出发就过敏严重,几乎让我们的脚步停顿,我们最终半途折返。保留行程,后续再去。

I have always yearned for unknown destinations and backpacking, and have always enjoyed making full schedule and plans. For this Thai trip, we decided to slow down and not to worry about missing anything. Our trip was later interupted by DD's unexpected serious alergy. Let me keep this plan for next time. DD owe my an island trip.


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