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发表于 2019-05-22 13:53

【環遊尋美拾遺錄】

【皇氏古建築大全】【黃劍博客圖文集】

【Jumbo Heritage List & The Globetrotting Adventure of Jumbo Huang】

第483回：机缘巧合地势险要，城邦争夺避税天堂

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作品中图片不得直接或者间接用于以营利为目的一切商业行为，违者必究。本图文中部分章节文字内容可能局部来自公开网络或公有领域，仅供个人学习研究和欣赏而使用，没有明确商业用途。原创照片来源：《皇氏古建築大全》和《環遊尋美拾遺錄》及《黄剑博客图文集》）

其实在二战期间，圣马力诺就收容了十万名难民，而她本身的人口只有一万五千。随着德军的撤退，盟军把圣马力诺还给了圣马力诺人。但不久圣马力诺开始了为期二个月的英国占领期。当年十一月圣马力诺政府与英国签署了和平协定，英军随即便撤出圣马力诺。

英国掌玺大臣爱德华希思于1961年在英国下院宣读的《效忠宣言》对圣马力诺在二战中的角色做出了评价。他在其中赞扬了圣马力诺共和国，因为尽管形势极为困难，但它还是在整个战争期间努力保持了传统的中立。1945年至1957年，圣马力诺由社会党等联合执政。

1957年天主教民主党在某党持不同政见者的帮助下获得执政权。1978年由某党领导的联盟再一次取得了政权。1988年7月，圣马力诺组成新政府，由天主教民主党和某党联合执政。1992年，圣马力诺成为联合国的成员国。1993年5月，圣马力诺大选后，圣马力诺政府由天主教民主党和社会党共同执政。

圣马力诺国之所以能保持独立，是因为他抵抗住了所有的邻国的侵袭，后来邻国变成只有一个后，又和他们保持了良好的附庸关系，所以一直没有出问题。除去历史原因，这些地方现在都是世界上著名的避税天堂，敢吞并它们，跨国公司和权贵土豪们也不会坐视不管。

说到这个圣马力诺，让我想起了另外二个欧洲小国，先说列支敦士登吧，据说它是神圣罗马帝国贵族的封地，这个家族长期服务于哈布斯堡王朝，这个地方处在群山之间，跟圣马力诺一样，地理位置其实真不重要，所以各次大战期间根本没有人理他们，他们也就一直保持独立，也算是运气好了。

另外一个叫卢森堡的国家，历史上曾多次被法国、德国吞并。最后它独立出来的重要原因有两个：一是它本身有一个独立民族卢森堡族，二是这个地方战略位置太重要，归属于法、德任何一个国家都会引起另一个国家的担忧。

最后再回到圣马力诺，它最终能得到独立，还是因为意大利统一功臣加里波第曾在此处避难，因此许诺当地人民统一意大利后给予他们独立地位。以上三个小国正好是政治学中的三种标本：

列支敦士登代表封建王国，卢森堡代表现代民族国家，而圣马力诺则代表城邦国家。第一种和第三种情况在今天的世界局势中几乎已经灭绝，而第二种则是经历了漫长的领土争夺战，才演化为我们今天看到的形态。

不明就里的人会用今天的民族国家形态去想象历史上和现实中的一切国家，其实他们三个小国只是在机缘巧合之下，保留了他们一直以来的生活方式而已。

圣马力诺全国划分为九个自治市，分别是：阿夸维瓦、博尔戈.马吉欧雷、基埃萨努欧瓦、多玛尼亚诺、法尔齐亚诺、科里阿尼诺、蒙泰吉阿迪诺、塞拉瓦莱和圣马力诺。圣马力诺市依蒂塔诺山坡而建，全市人口不足五千人，圣马力诺国花是仙客来。

圣马力诺旅游业发达，其收入占国民生产总值的50%以上。2013年共接待游客190万人次。我在这里还看到过一个中马友谊联络处，来圣马力诺旅游的中国人也非常多，很多卖书和地图的地方都还有中文介绍。

圣马力诺的邮票仅在国内有效，但当地邮局发行许多精美的邮票，绝大部分被出售给了集邮爱好者，也形成了收入的来源。精美绝伦的集邮册、首日封和圣马力诺硬币是其旅游收入的重要来源之一。以新颖、超前的邮政服务、邮票和古钱币享誉世界。

圣马力诺有一条1.5公里的索道连接圣马力诺市马焦雷镇至较高处的泰塔山。通往亚德里亚海及机场可由公路，经意大利里米尼抵达，该城亦有意大利国铁车站。固定接驳车往来圣马力诺市及里米尼两地，

广受旅游者使用。各社区亦有其小型公共汽车系统。这里最著名的就是圣方济各教堂了，它是圣马力诺最古老、最富艺术性的建筑。位于首都圣方济各门右侧。

建于14世纪。教堂正门上方悬一石匾，刻有公元1361年1月动工兴建等字样和一只头戴王冠、展翅欲飞的雄鹰浮雕，其旁还有一戴冕头像的浮雕。教堂的主祭台上，

有十分珍贵的14世纪木刻耶稣像和建于1405年小巧而精美的古钟楼。在带有拱顶的回廊上有14、15世纪的仪仗十字架，13世纪的圣骨匣及其他宗教器物、墓碑、壁画和各个时期的绘画。圣马力诺面积只有61平方公里，城市建在山坡之上。

山上西坡那部分包括三座城堡的区域，叫圣马力诺城，是其首都。瓦洛尼宫，是国家博物馆与图书馆所在。圣马力诺城虽然很小，街区间却一连有好几个广场，

每个广场大体上都以一座教堂为主体建筑。圣马力诺城的连环广场，是他们历史悠久的双执政官体制下的市民民主生活的必备空间，也是他们国家持续安定康乐的生动象征。

再说我们继续朝另外一座城楼上行进，石头城堡修葺完好，在侧面陡峭的山壁上分布着好几座碉堡，在右侧的城墙下面的拱门里，能看到一些艺术家做描画城堡的油画，我们走到一座城门旁边，沿狭窄的石阶爬上城墙上面，可以俯瞰远处的风光，大量欧美游客正沿着一米多宽的城防行走，

远处的碉楼建在几百米高的悬崖边缘，非常壮观，我们拍完照片就朝下走，继续往最后一座碉楼走去，沿途经过一些商店，多出售仙女玩偶，经过一处安静的隐藏在树木中的空地上，我们想走过去吃点东西，却看到一个高挑的穿短裤的欧美女人居然独自爬到悬崖旁边看风景，

她只戴个遮掩帽，提个塑料袋在峭壁上攀爬，我都替她捏把汗，通常这些欧女胆子都特别大，好奇心也很重，不像我之前在商店里碰到的一些中国女孩，个个都是腼腆的听话乖乖女。

我们继续沿山路走，到达另外一处城墙那城，看到一个画家在给游客即兴画漫画，多是素描，有一家老小路过去让他轮流画，我们沿台阶继续前进，很快到达最远处的那座碉堡，后面是树林，我们走到小径上，碰到一只黑色的猫，

媛怕猫咬，想把它赶到路边，不久一位穿黑色短裙的高挑欧女走了过来，她让黑猫舔她雪白如凝脂的小腿，之后还弯腰去爱抚猫，看来欧洲人跟动物的关系还是比较亲密和谐的。

我们走到碉楼旁边的石头那里乘凉，最后开始往回走，碰到一些中国的大妈团，都喜欢拿出苹果平板电脑拍照，这些大妈估计是炒股猛赚了一把，都处在夕阳肥的年纪，出手非常阔绰，感觉像是那些居住在上海附近的暴发拆迁户一样。

我们走到另外一段非常壮观的城墙下面，经过一座城门，然后到达了商业街，看到一位老人骑着二战时期的摩托车经过，

后来他把三个轮子的摩托车（两轮摩托车的右侧安装一个轮子带木头坐仓的那种）停在拱门商店旁边，我就走过去试骑了一会。

这里有很多卖军刀和军需品的商店，还能看到一些餐厅，但价格较贵，我们出了大城门，看到城墙那里居然还有石头制的古老时钟，沿途能看到很多鸽子，我看到城外有一座教堂，就走过去参观，媛则坐在一个商店门口休息，走进教堂，发现里面空无一个，我逛了一圈就出来了，继续走到停车场那里候车，看到一位畸形的神志异常的男人在母亲的陪伴下出来游玩。最终我们上了返程大巴，在14点左右坐车离开圣马力诺。

话说我们乘坐汽车从圣马力诺共和国抵达里米尼古城，走进火车站查看列车班次，发现离火车发车时候还有一段时间，如是我让媛在车站休息，我则独自走到里米尼参观，我沿商业街往教堂的方位走，这里分布着很多白色石头建筑的房子，走到广场后，继续朝远处的钟楼走去，街上行人并不多，

看到一处废弃的教堂遗址，再走到另一座砖砌的教堂参观，过了一会我就往回走到里米尼火车站，沿途能看到很多老人，到了车站后我们就上了火车，列车在15:57分发车，二位老人坐我们左侧，一个受过高等教育的老人非常严肃，他挎着一个帆布包，上面写着“环球火车探险”，看来这个老人特别喜欢坐火车旅行了。

约17:21分抵达了博洛尼亚火车站，我们出了火车站，就走到广场对面的商店门口候车，尔后我们坐上25路公交车，碰到几个目光呆滞的同胞，他们不与意大利本地人交流，倒是碰到一个严重被意化的亚洲少女，她跟一个意女站在一起，穿着暴露性感，还在皮肤上绣了纹身，通过观察，我认为她十有八九是为华人。

很快我们就到达酒店附近的车站，下车后特意走到温州小吃店，此时人不多，老板跟几个女工在聊天，店内有个青少年，疑似老板的儿子，我们坐在旁边临时搭建的棚子里，这里是主餐厅，还有电视，正在播放中国的节目，我们点了份鱼香肉丝盖饭，炒面和炒河粉，饭菜的份量不多，导致最后我们居然没有吃饱，

但也不能再叫菜了，支付14欧元给老板后我们又走到超市购物，买了一些水果和润肤霜，共花费5.94欧元，然后我们徒步走回酒店，媛今天比较疲惫，她这是周期性的状态欠佳。我们轮流洗完澡之后就在房间看书，媛一边看电视一边手抄佛教心经，替我们祈福，希望后面的旅途一帆风顺。

2015年06月16日：早上起床后整理好四个背包就出门了，坐电梯到了大堂，看到值班的是一位白发老人，我们在交易会酒店办理退房手续，老者又向我们收了六欧元的税费，我们付了钱就出了酒店大堂，右转走到公交车站，坐上25路公共汽车，凑巧的是媛居然与一位两鬓斑白的中国温州老人坐一起，聊天得知他是2001年从温州来到欧洲的，他在博洛尼亚呆了14年，期间他哪里都没有去，就一直在这个地方工作。

他说住在当地就跟文O革时期一样，机械性地工作，从早忙到晚，也不需要跟外界有什么交流。他每天都这么坐公交车上下班，其实跟国内很多上班族是差不多的，只不过他能在一个岗位一呆就是十几年，他说欧洲唯一的好处就是自由，没有人管理，小孩上学就是玩，他一个孩子过来了，贷款买了二手房，并没有办理移民，只是永久居民。

他现在想回国，他说现在都没有人会移民欧洲，工作机会少，他认为中国发展更快，他偶尔会回国探亲，他说现在温州的火车站建得非常气派，比意大利那些破破烂烂的火车站强多了。

我插嘴说“只知道建高楼大厦并不代表工农业发达和社会进步”，他现在还不懂意大利语，这个温州人坐公交车之前已经办理了年卡，所以不用每次上车都买票，其实司机也不管你上车买不买票的，完全靠自觉了，说来也巧，正当我们聊天时，突然有一个女人上车查票，这是三天以来我第一次碰到有人上车查票的，我就感觉这个博洛尼亚是欧洲最接近我国管理的城市了。

不久我们到了火车站，我们与温州老人道别，在6：50分走到火车站大厅，看到乞讨者和睡在火车站的流浪者，欧洲的大部分火车站没有我国的火车站那么豪华，我们在车站候车，然后在7：20分上了去威尼斯的火车，火车中途停了很多站，途径一个小镇时上来一个高挑的金黄头发的美女，她只拿一个小挎包，正在读威尼斯的游记。

过了一阵子我们的火车经过了古城费拉拉市了，它地处波河三角洲农业中心，在第二次世界大战期间工业有很大发展，有很多中世纪教堂与美术学校。费拉拉建立于公元前6至7世纪，是文艺复兴时期发展起来的文化和艺术古城，

现为费拉拉省的首府，费拉拉以其美丽的风景和丰富的世界遗产值得观光，有建于12世纪至16世纪的大教堂兼具罗马式和哥特式风格，其周围环绕着中世纪的建筑，包括市政大楼和护城河环绕埃斯特城堡和众多的文艺复兴风格的宫殿，还有罗梅宅第和钻石宫等。

火车离开费拉拉省之后继续在田野上奔驰，沿途的风景非常平淡，没有看到什么重工业，环境保护得比国内要好，我在看风景的时候，媛正与意大利美女坐在一起学习英语，

她旁边的女孩穿着牛仔裤，黄色卷发及腰，后来火车经过了大片绿油油的农田，估计很多从中国过来的农民兄弟正在意大利锄禾日当午了，最后我终于看到一群白色的类似谷仓的工业建筑群，可能是农产品深加工的生产线，再过一会火车到达了威尼斯梅斯特雷火车站，很多人在这里下车了。

包括坐我们旁边的那位金发美女也下车了，其实从这个小镇坐火车半小时就可以到达威尼斯，根本不用预定威尼斯的高价酒店，我们当时就没有考虑到这一点。当时我们应该也在这里下车的，因为这个区域的住宿非常便宜，完全可以晚上住威尼斯梅斯特雷，白天再去威尼斯游玩，我们这次忽视了这点，结果到了威尼斯古城时在阴沟里翻了船，被威尼斯佬痛宰了一顿，至今让我们愤愤不平。

Jumbo Huang citation resources: Today we left the Hotel Fiera and headed to the train station by talking bus, we onboard the train T1 11407 Ancona, departed at 7:35am to Rimini, We reached Rimini at 9:05am, We Left the train station and found the bus stop for San Marino, we bought two round-trip tickets at euro20(San Marino Gruppo Bonelli Bus& Benedettini), after onboard the bus, we headed for San Marino, when the bus passed through the ancient city of Rimini, we could see many old buildings. Rimini was a city of 225000 inhabitants in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy and capital city of the Province of Rimini. It is located on the Adriatic Sea, on the coast between the rivers Marecchia and Ausa. It is one of the most famous seaside resorts in Europe, thanks to its 15km long sandy beach, over 1000 hotels, and thousands of bars, restaurants and discos. The first bathing establishment opened in 1843.

An art city with ancient Roman and Renaissance monuments, Rimini is the hometown of the famous film director Federico Fellini as well. Founded by the Romans in 268 BC, throughout their period of rule Rimini was a key communications link between the north and south of the peninsula, and on its soil Roman emperors erected monuments like the Arch of Augustus and the Tiberius Bridge, while during the Renaissance, the city benefited from the court of the House of Malatesta, which hosted artists like Leonardo and produced works such as the Malatesta Temple. In the 19th century, Rimini was one of the most active cities in the revolutionary front, hosting many of the movements aimed at the unification of Italy. Rimini has a rich historical and artistic heritage, which includes churches and monasteries, villas and palaces, fortifications, archaeological sites, streets and squares. Rimini has monuments of all epochs, with important examples of architecture from the Roman age, such as the Arch of Augustus, the Tiberius Bridge, the Amphiteatre and the Domus del Chirurgo; from the Middle Ages, such as the Palazzo dell’Arengo, the church of Sant’Agostino and Castel Sismondo; from the Renaissance, with the Tempio Malatestiano, masterpiece of Leon Battista Alberti. After one hour we finally reached Repubblica di San Marino, also known as the Most Serene Republic of San Marino, was an enclaved microstate surrounded by Italy, situated on the Italian Peninsula on the north-eastern side of the Apennine Mountains. Its size is just over 61 km2 and has an estimated population of about 32,000. Its capital is the City of San Marino and its largest city is Dogana. San Marino has the smallest population of all the members of the Council of Europe. San Marino claims to be the oldest surviving sovereign state and constitutional republic in the world, as the continuation of the monastic community founded on 301, by stonecutter Marinus of Arba. Legend has it that Marinus left Rab, then the Roman colony of Arba, in 257 when the future emperor Diocletian issued a decree calling for the reconstruction of the city walls of Rimini, which had been destroyed by Liburnian pirates. The country's economy mainly relies on finance, industry, services and tourism. Despite having an extremely small economy for a nation state, it is one of the wealthiest countries in the world in terms of GDP (per capita), with a figure comparable to the most developed European regions. San Marino is considered to have a highly stable economy, with one of the lowest unemployment rates in Europe, no national debt and a budget surplus. It is the only country with more vehicles than people. Saint Marinus left the island of Arba in present-day Croatia with his lifelong friend Leo, and went to the city of Rimini as a stonemason. After the Diocletianic Persecution following his Christian sermons, he escaped to the nearby Monte Titano, where he built a small church and thus founded what is now the city and state of San Marino. The official date of the founding of what is now known as the Republic is 3 September 301. Its topography is dominated by the Apennine mountain range, and it has a rugged terrain. The highest point in the country, the summit of Monte Titano, is situated at 749 m. We left San Marino at 14pm, and reached Rimini around 15pm, I went around the cities for half an hour and return back to catch the train of T12068 headed for Piacenza, we departed at 15:57pm, we saw an old man took a very old canvas bag which showed the word of “World Truck Expedition”, we arrived in Bologna around 17:21pm, then we took bus25 to the street close to the hotel, we ate at the Chinese restaurant, cost us 14euro, then we bought some fruit and cosmetics, cost us another euro5.94, after that we returned back to the hotel. After taking shower, I began to research the history of the Battle of Keren, The battle was fought from 5 February to 1 April 1941 between a mixed Italian army of regular and colonial troops and the attacking British, Commonwealth, and Free French forces. The town of Keren, located in the Italian colony of Eritrea, was of strategic importance to both the Italian and the British-led forces in 1941. The road and railway routes through Keren were the key to access the city of Asmara and the Red Sea port of Massawa, both of which surrendered to Allied forces in the aftermath of the battle. Originally colonised by the Italians in 1885, Eritrea was used as a staging ground for two Italian invasions of Ethiopia or Abyssinia, Keren had no built-in fortifications or defensive structures but it is surrounded on most sides by a jumble of steep granite mountains and sharp ridges which gave the defending forces on the high ground a distinct advantage whilst providing their artillery with perfect observation of any attacking formations, even though Italian army had this advantage, it still be defeated by the British-led forces, Keren was as hard a soldiers' battle as was ever fought, it was too tough for the Italians.

Diary Notes: 20150616 We left the Hotel Fiera room in the morning, the old man in front of the counter charged me another euro6 taxi, we walked to the bus station, took bus to train station, we were aboard the train at 7:20am, the train of RV2224 headed to Venezia S.L. It stopped at Ferrara City, and reached Venezia-Mestre very soon, eventually we reached the Venezia S.L. train station, after left the station, we walked to the bus station, crossed some bridges, and found our hotel at 10:30am, the details of the hotel was: Casa Caburlotto , I booked two night and I should pay in the local currency € 100，€ 3 City tax per person per night is excluded. F.ta Rizzi - Santa Croce 316 Santa Croce 30135 Venice 39041710877, when I began to check in, I found that I made a mistake, I actually booked one single room for two night at the rate of € 100, after negotiation, we adjusted to sleep in the double room for one night with the price of € 100, it was the most expensive room we had ever slept. After put away my backpackers, I returned to the lobby to use the wifi, I accessed to the internet and booked another room, the price was only €49 per night for two persons, the hotel named Host Hotel Venice, Dorsoduro 223, originally named Hotel ALLA Salute. After I put the computer in the room, I began to walk around the city, from Stazione Ferroviaria Santa Lucia to Piazzale Rome, actually a bus station close to Giardino Papadopoli garden, through Ponte Della Costituzine, Fondamenta Ca Rizzi road, hotel of Casa Carburlotte, I walked several hours, and saw the big Island Princess cruise ship. Later I found my booked hotel, and walked to Nur S.A.S. Di Mohammed Jamal EC Dorsoduro 2973, I bought a pizza for euro2.5, the shopper was from Bengal. After I came back to hotel, I asked Iris to walk with me by another routine, we saw the stores at Canad City SGR PV Sestiere Santa Croc, we bought some food, included Tramezz cotto and Salmone, we ate the food at the outside of the store. And we kept walking until it began to rain heavily. Venice was a city in northeastern Italy sited on a group of 118 small islands separated by canals and linked by bridges. It is located in the marshy Venetian Lagoon which stretches along the shoreline, between the mouths of the Po and the Piave Rivers. Venice is renowned for the beauty of its setting, its architecture, and its artwork. The city in its entirety is listed as a World Heritage Site, along with its lagoon. The name is derived from the ancient Veneti people who inhabited the region by the 10th century BC. The city was historically the capital of the Republic of Venice. Venice has been known as the "La Dominante", "Serenissima", "Queen of the Adriatic", "City of Water", "City of Masks", "City of Bridges", "The Floating City", and "City of Canals". The Republic of Venice was a major maritime power during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and a staging area for the Crusades and the Battle of Lepanto, as well as a very important center of commerce (especially silk, grain, and spice) and art in the 13th century up to the end of the 17th century. This made Venice a wealthy city throughout most of its history. It is also known for its several important artistic movements, especially the Renaissance period. After the Napoleonic Wars and the Congress of Vienna, the Republic was annexed by the Austrian Empire, until it became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1866, following a referendum held as a result of the Third Italian War of Independence. Venice has played an important role in the history of symphonic and operatic music, and it is the birthplace of Antonio Vivaldi. From the 9th to the 12th century, Venice developed into a city state. Its strategic position at the head of the Adriatic made Venetian naval and commercial power almost invulnerable. With the elimination of pirates along the Dalmatian coast, the city became a flourishing trade center between Western Europe and the rest of the world with a naval power protecting sea routes from Islamic piracy. Venice seized a number of places on the eastern shores of the Adriatic before 1200, mostly for commercial reasons, because Muslim pirates based there were a menace to trade. So far the biggest challenge for Venice is subsidence, the gradual lowering of the surface of Venice, has led to the seasonal Acqua alta when much of the city's surface is occasionally covered at high tide. Venice is one of the most important tourist destinations in the world for its celebrated art and architecture. The city has an average of 60000 tourists a day, In 2006, it was the world's 28th most internationally visited city, with 3million international arrivals that year. It is regarded as one of the world's most beautiful cities. Tourism has been a major sector of Venetian industry since the 18th century, when it was a major center for the Grand Tour, with its beautiful cityscape, uniqueness, and rich musical and artistic cultural heritage. In the 19th century, it became a fashionable centre for the rich and famous, often staying or dining at luxury establishments such as the Danieli Hotel and the Caffè Florian. It continued being a fashionable city in vogue right into the early 20th century. In the 1980s, the Carnival of Venice was revived and the city has become a major centre of international conferences and festivals, such as the prestigious Venice Biennale and the Venice Film Festival, which attract visitors from all over the world for their theatrical, cultural, cinematic, artistic, and musical productions. Today, there are numerous attractions in Venice, such as St Mark's Basilica, the Grand Canal, and the Piazza San Marco. The Lido di Venezia is also a popular international luxury destination, attracting thousands of actors, critics, celebrities, and mainly people in the cinematic industry. The city also relies heavily on the cruise business. The Cruise Venice Committee has estimated that cruise ship passengers spend more than 150 million euros annually in the city, However, Venice's popularity as a major worldwide tourist destination has caused several problems, including the fact that the city can be very overcrowded at some points of the year. It is regarded by some as a tourist trap, and by others as a "living museum". Unlike most other places in Western Europe, and the world, Venice has become widely known for its element of elegant decay. The competition for foreigners to buy homes in Venice has made prices rise so high that numerous inhabitants are forced to move to more affordable areas of Veneto, the most notable being Mestre. The need to balance cruise tourism revenues with the protection of the city's fragile canals has seen the Italian Transport Ministry attempt to introduce a ban on large cruise ships visiting the city. The ban would only allow cruise ships smaller than 40000gross tons to enter Venice’s Giudecca Canal and St Mark's basin.